Sewing-machine for stitching buttonholes



(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 J.. T. HOGAN. SEWING MACHINE FOR STITGHINGBUTTONHOLES.

No. 472,501. Patented Apr. 5, 1892.

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SEWING MACHINE FOR STITOHING' BUTTONHOLES. No. 472,501. Patented Apr. 5,1892.

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J. T. HOGAN.

SEWING MAGHINE FOR STITOHING BUTTONHOLES. No. 472,501. Patented Apr. 5,-1892.

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. J. ,T. HOGAN.

SEWINGMAGHINE FOR STITGHING BUTTONHOLES.

No. 472,501. Patented Apr. 5, 1892.

(No Model.) I 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 J. T. HOGAN. SEWING MACHINE FOR STITGHINGBUTTONHOLES.

No. 472,501. Patented Apr. 5, 1892.

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IJMTED STATES PATE T @rrrcn.

JAMES T. HOGAN, OF JERSEY CITY, NElV JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE NATIONALMACHINE COMPANY, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

SEWING-MACHINE FOR STITCHING BUTTONHOLES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 472,501, dated April 5,1892. Application filed June 22,1887. Serial No. 242,100. (No model.)Patented in England June 15, 1887.1?[0- 8,628.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES T. HOGAN. a resident of Jersey City, in thecounty of Hudson and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Sewing- Machines for Stitching Buttonholes,(which invention was patented in Great Britain, No. 8,628, dated June15, 1887;) and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear,-and exact description of the invention, that will enable others skilledin the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of referencemarked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several figures therein.

My invention relates to improvements in sewing-machines for stitchingbuttonholes, and is essentially applicable to sewing-machines providedwith an attachment for imparting to the fabricintermittingly-progressive movements and to the fabric or needle to andfro movements, such as described in United States Patents No. 203,287,dated May '7, 1878; No. 252,052, dated January 10, 1882;

No. 273,727, dated March 13, 1883, and No. 319,800, dated June 9, 1885,to which reference may be had for a description of the attachments aswell as movements.

My invention consists of the novel construction and combination of partshereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims, and is animprovement upon some of the devices shown and described in UnitedStates Patent No. 310,677, dated January 13, 1885, especially thosedevices which are employed to introduce a purlingthread, as andfor thepurposes therein set forth. The purling devices described in said PatentNo. 310,677 were peculiarly adapted to the buttonholing and eyeletti-ngattachment for sewingmachines described in said Patent No. 273,727, inwhich the cloth-clamp had a rotary as well as zigzagintermittingly-progressive movements, by which the edge of the fabricforming the buttonhole was intermittingly fed toward the needle in thesame general direction from one endof the buttonhole around the otherend and back to the place of beginning, the fabric being turned around,so as to always approach the needle from one and the same side, whichrendered it unnecessary to vibrate the purling-thread carrier on morethan one side of the needle; but when the buttonholing attachmentdescribed in said Patent No. 252,052 is employed the fabric is fed thelength of the buttonholes by zigzag in termittingly-progressivestep-by-step movements toward one side of the needle, and back againalong the opposite side of the buttonhole by similar movements, andtoward the opposite side of the needle, as herein described. The lattermay be termed retrogressive when compared with the progressivemovements. It is evident, therefore, that the purling-thread carrier isrequired to vibrate to and fro on one side of the needle while one sideof the but tonhole is being stitched,and on the opposite side of theneedle while the opposite side of the buttonhole is being stitched.

The object of the present invention is to provide a purling-threadcarrier that can be operated on opposite sides of the needle and meansfor operating the same, and means for changing the operating-fields ofthe carrier from one side of the needle to another side during theoperation of stitching, whether by hand-lever or automatically.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a side elevation of a buttonholesewing-machine with my improved purling device attached. Figs. 2 and 3are front elevations of a portion of the parts shown in Fig. 1, Fig. 2showing the slide-bar which supports the purling-thread carrier, locatedon one side of the needle-bar, and Fig. 3 showing the slide-bar located011 the opposite side. Figs. 4 and 5 are top plan views of the purlingdevices, Fig. 4: showing the slidebar at the limit of itslongitudinalvibration toward the needle-bar and at the limit of itslateral vibration to one side of a plane passing through the needle,Fig. 5, showing the limit of its respective vibrations in the oppositedirections. Fig. 6 is a plan view of the devices, constituting togetherapreferred but tonhole attachment, such as described in said Patent No.252,052. Fig. 7 is a plan view of the slide-plate which supports theslide-bar bearing, showing the arm which vibrates it longitudinally.Fig. 8 is a plan View of the slidecarrier which vibrates the slide plateand bar laterally and is provided with a slideway in which the plateslides longitudinally. Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view of the slide-barbearing-block 0, taken through slot C Fig. 10 is a plan view ofbed-plate I with other parts removed to show slideway for carriage D.Fig. 11 is cross-section taken at broken line X X in Fig. 10.

In Fig. 1 are shown some of the well-known parts of a sewing-machine, asbed-plate A, bracket-arm A, head A supported thereby, driving-shaft Aand drive-wheel A. The driving-shaft A is provided with a switchcam Afixed thereon for operating the lever A, pivoted upon a fixed support.This lever is pivoted at its lower end at H upon a lug ll, projectingfrom the slide-plate lI,which plate operates the mechanism for impartingto the feed-bar I, provided with plate P, having cloth-clamp P pivot-edthereon at P toand-fro movements and relatively-transverse step-by-stepprogressive and retrogressive movements to produce a zigzag overedgcbuttonhole stitch, substantially as shown and described in said PatentNo. 252,052, to which reference may be had for a full description of themechanism employed, the principal parts of which I have shown in Fig. 6,in which it will be seen that the plate II is adapted to slide to andfro between the ways T and T on the bed-plate K, which rests when in useupon the bed-plate of the main plate A. (Not shown in Fig. 6.)

The plate R, provided with the slot q, is adjustably secured to theplate II by the adjusting-screw q, passing through said slot, beingguided by the ways T, secured to or forming part of plate H. The plate Ris also provided with transverse guideways R for the slide or follower Rto which the feed'bar I is attached, whereby the bar, partaking ofthevibratory movements of plate II, can also be given a relativelytransverse step-by-step movement by means of the pitman 6, connectingthe follower R secured to the feedbar with crank-pin b, radiallyadjustable on the rotary crank-wheel F, and provided with a handle F, bywhich the crank-wheel may be rotated by hand, when desired. Thecrankwheel F is also provided with means for imparting to it regularintermittent movements, by which the wheel is given a completerevolution during the operation of stitching each buttonhole. Said meansconsist of the drivewheel L, provided with crank-pin m, which has afollower n fitting in the radially-slotted guide fast on the wheel 7:,toothed to engage with wheel F.

The drive-wheel L is provided with ratchetteeth and aconcentrically-pivoted lever L, carrying a drive-pawl L adapted toengage with the ratchet-wheel and having a toothed are (shown in dottedlines) adapted to engage with a similar toothed areZ on the lever 1),that is pivoted to the plate 11, and connected with the bed-plate K by afulcrum-arm Q,

which is adjustable in guides Q by a screw Q on the bed-plate, as fullyshown and de scribed in said Patent No. 252,052.

The foregoing mechanism is referred to and briefly identified as apreferred known means for imparting to the fabric-holder of asewing-machine to-and-fro movements and relatively-transversestep-by-step progressive and retrogressive movements, the progressivemovements taking place during one-half a revolution of the crank-wheel Fand the retrogressive movements during the remaining half-revolution,although any known mechanism for producing such movements may beemployed, also, as a preferred means for automatically determining thefield of operation to be occupied by the purling-thread carrier, as willhereinafter be more fully explained.

The mechanism shown in Fi l is concealed from view in other figures bythe cover M, which rests upon bed-plate A. The feed-bar P projectsthrough a slot in the front side of the cover, and the crank-wheel F isaccessible through an opening in the top of the cover, as shown.

The slide-bar I which supports the purlingthread carrierB', is rotary ina bearing-block O, secured to a slide-plate C, which plate is guided byways D and D", secured to the slide-carriage D. The slid e-carriage isguided by ways 1 on the bed-plate I, which rests upon the top of coverM, and is secured thereto by screws 25, passing down through screw-holesin the corners of the plate and its cover I.

The slide-carriage is reciprocated by a lever D, fulcrumed upon theplate I upon a pivot D (shown by dotted lines,) and pro vided at one endwith an operating-handle D and at the other with a pin adapted to engagewith the carriage in slot D. The lever is also provided with anactuating-spring S, having a fixed support S.

The vertical rock-shaft G has its support ing-bearing in an offset fromthe cover I and is connected through crank-arm G at its upper end bylink G with the cam-actuated lever A at The rock-shaft is provided atits lower end with the arm G which rests in the opening I in bed-plateI, and is provided at its end with a vertical pin G, projecting upthrough the opening D in the slide-carriage into the transverse slot 0in the slideplate C, the transverse walls of the slot serving as tappetsfor reciprocating the slide when acted upon by the pin.

The bearing-block C is secured to the top of slide-plate C, in theposition shown, and is provided on its upper side with the centraltransverse slot C through which projects the tappet-arm B fixed upon theslide'bar 13. Th is arm is of suflicientlength toproj ect up through thecentral opening, (shown in cover I,) and may be provided on itsprojecting end with a handle, by which the slide-bar 13 can be whollycontrolled and operated by the hand.

As a preferred means for controlling the rotary movements of theslide-bar, I provide the guides J J, which may be the edge walls of thecentral opening in the cover I, as shown. The slide-bar is provided witha downwardlyprojecting arm S fixed thereon, the projecting end of whichis connected with one side of bed-plate I by spring S and with theopposite side by spring S, as shown. rier B, which carries thepurling-thread B is adj ustably secured in a socket in the end of theslide-bar by set-screw B The carriage-plate D is moved from the positionshown in Figs. 5 and 3 to that shown in Figs. 4 and 2 by means of thelever D, and is secured in the position shown in Figs. 4 and 2 by meansof the trip-latch E, pivoted upon plate I at E and provided at one endwith the stop E adapted to engage with the projecting end of the way Dsecured to plate D, the other end of the latch dropping down upon thecrank-wheel F.

The spring S is preferably attached at one end to a short arm ll of thelatch to facilitate the engagement. Whenever the latch is tripped, as bythe lug or trip E projecting upward from the face of the rotarycrankwheel in the path of the latch, the resiliency of the spring Sforces the carriage D back again to the position shown in Figs. 5 and 3.As the carriage-plate slides back and forth, it is evident theslide-plate O is carried back and forth with it, the pin G occupyingfirst one end and the other of slot in the plate 0.

When the devices are to be operated automatically, the method is asfollows: The slidecarriage D is first forced over into the positionshown in Figs. 4 and 2 by the operator, where it is locked by the latchE.- The mechanism of the buttonhole-sewing machine is then put inoperation, which vibrates the lever A, and through the connecting partsheretofore described imparts to the cloth-holder and the slide-plate 0simultaneous to and fro move ments in opposite directions. During boththe to and fro movements the bearing-block G acts upon the tappet B tocommunicate its to-andfro slide movements to the rotarybar B,whereforeIterm the bar a rotary slide-bar. The purling-thread carrier being fixedupon this bar, partakes of all its movements and carries thepurling-thread B to and fro from one side of the needle N to theopposite side. This movement of the depending leg B of the carrier isshown by dotted lines in Fig. l. The two extreme positions are alsoshown in solid lines in Figs. 4 and 5. The course taken by the head ofthe carrier around the needle or needle-hole N is also shown in the twolatter figures by the curved broken line. The to and fro movements infront of the needle are obtained from the slide movements of the bar andcarrier, and the bacl -and-forth movement which curves the course of thecarrier is effected by the guide J, upon which the tappet B rides, beingheld in contact therewith by the spring S, acting through arm S The car-The course followed by the head of the carrier will depend upon the formof the guide J, and can be varied as desired. When the crank-wheel F hasmade a half-revolution, the pitman e is in line with the crank and axisof the Wheel, and the step-by-step progressive movements of thecloth-holder will stop, and as the wheel continues to rotate theretrogressive step-by-step movement commences and continues during theremaining half-revolution. As the cloth during the retrogressivemovements travels in the opposite direction, that which was the front ofthe needle during the progressive movements of the cloth-holder becomesthe back during the retrogressive movements. It becomes necessary,therefore, to change the field of operations ofvthe threadcarrier fromthe side of the needle occupied during the progressive movements to theopposite side during the retrogressive movements. To accomplish thischange, I prefer to make use of the trip E, which is so located upon thecrank-Wheel as to pass under the lever E and lift it sufficiently torelease the stop D whereupon the spring s immediately slides thecarriage D from the position shown in Figs. 4 and 2 to that shown inFigs. 5 and 3, which changes the plane of vibration of the slide-barfrom one side of the needle to the opposite, and by releasing or greatlydiminishing the tension upon spring S and greatly increasing that uponspring S the tappet B is thrown over to the other side of the opening incover I and forced to engage with the guide J, similar in form to J,whereby the carrier is caused to travel overa course similar to thattraversed before, except that the backward curve is reversed, as willappear by inspection of the curved broken lines in Figs. 4 and 5 aroundthe needle-hole. As one side of the buttonhole is formed during theprogressive movements and the opposite side during the retrogressivemovements the work is completed at the end of the latter movements andthe operation may be repeated upon successive buttonholes as often asdesired.

It is evident that all the required movements of the purling-threadcarrier may be obtained by operating the rotary slide-bar by the handwithout recourse to any of the mechanisms for accomplishing the samemovements automatically.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is Y 1. Ina buttonhole sewing-machine, the combination, with the stitch-formingmechanism, of a depending purling-thread carrier, a horizontalcarrier-supporting bar movable longitudinally and axially in bearings,bearing-supports, and means for communicating to the bar longitudinaland axial movements, substantially as described.

2. In a buttonhole sewing-machine, the combination, with thestitch-forming mechanism, of the purliug-thread carrier, means foroscillating the same from side to side, and

further means whereby the path of its traverse may be altered at eachend of the buttonhole, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with a buttonhole sewing-machine provided with meansfor imparting to the cloth-clamp to-and-fro movements andrelativelytransverse step-by-step pro gressive and retrogressivemovements, of a purling-thread carrier supported by a rotary slide-bar,a slideway for said slide-bar secured to a carriage movable transverselyto the movements of the slide-bar, a carriageactuating spring, and acarriage-restraining latch, as and for the purposes set forth.

4. The OOll1bll1{ttlOl1,\Vith abuttonhole sewing-machine provided withmeans for imparting to the cloth-clamp to-andfro movements andrelatively-transverse step-by-step progressive and retrogressivemovements, of a purling-thread carrier supported by a rotary slide-bar,a slideway secured to a spring-actuated latch-controlled carriagemovabletransversely to the movements of the slide-bar, saidactuating-spring and restraining-latch, and means, substantially asdescribed, for automatically tripping the restraining-latch andreleasing said carriage at the end of said step-by-step progressivemovements, as and for the purposes set forth.

5. The combination, with abuttonhole sewing-machine, of a rotaryslide-bar provided with a depending purling-thread carrier, and devicesfor automatically imparting to said bar reoiprocatory rotary and slidemovements consisting of spring, S, tappet B guide J, and rock-shaft Glinked to a lever actuated bya switch-cam upon the main shaft of thesewing-machine, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 17th day of June,1887.

JAMES T. HOGAN.

Witnesses:

E. 0. House, J. P. HALLENBECK.

